Maison Chaumet, in partnership with M7, Qatar Museums, and Qatar Creates, presents Chaumet & Nature: Nature-Inspired Jewellery Since 1780, the first of its kind exhibition in Qatar to showcase Chaumet’s rich history of nature-inspired jewellery. Running from November 1 to December 19, 2024, at M7, the exhibition will display 107 jewellery pieces and 111 visual works, including eight never-before-seen items from Chaumet and Qatar Museums’ collections.
Founded in 1780, Maison Chaumet has been renowned for its botanical motifs, drawing from both everyday flora and unexpected natural themes like wheat, laurel, palm trees, and even wings. A special section highlights Chaumet’s use of pearls, honouring Qatar’s heritage and its historical connection to pearl diving.
Chaumet & Nature is organised into five thematic sections: Preserving Nature, Drawing Nature, Observing Nature, Living in Nature, and Diving in Nature. Featured items include significant works from Qatar Museums, such as the Duke of Westminster’s Wings Tiara (1907) and the Henckel von Donnersmarck Emerald Tiara (1900).
The exhibition is further enriched by Qatari creative contributions. A poem by Salman Bin Khalid celebrates nature’s treasures, while Qatari artist Shouq Al Mana designed an exclusive piece inspired by Qatar’s pearl-diving legacy. Additionally, Zainab AlShibani was selected to craft Chaumet’s new Arabic logo, now present in Middle Eastern flagship stores.
Below Bertrand Bonnet Besse the Heritage Ambassador at Chaumet guides us through the exhibition highlighting a few pieces, offering historical context and technical details on selected Chaumet jewels.
A Guided Tour by Bertrand Bonnet Besse – Heritage Ambassador Chaumet
Chaumet’s relationship with Qatar began with a significant royal gesture: His Majesty King Hassan II of Morocco presented an extraordinary Chaumet piece to His Highness the Sheikh of Qatar. This gift, which you will encounter at the start of the exhibition, marked the beginning of a long-standing collaboration between Chaumet and Qatar.
The showcased piece, gifted by King Hassan II, is a remarkable work of artistry. It features blue aventurine stone, with names of cities and ports crafted in red jasper and gold, as well as intricate depictions of small ships. Typically displayed in the office of Qatar’s ruler, this rare piece is not often accessible to the public. Its presence in this exhibition is truly significant, allowing visitors a unique glimpse into this extraordinary symbol of heritage and diplomacy.
To commence the exhibition and illustrate its theme of nature, I would like to highlight this exquisite tiara. Chaumet remains a renowned specialist in tiara design, and this particular piece was created for Empress Josephine. The founder of Chaumet, Nito, designed the tiara to feature ears of wheat that appear to sway gently in the wind, embodying a naturalistic aesthetic that reflects the beauty of nature. This piece is not only a stunning work of art but also signifies our ongoing inspiration from natural motifs, as we continue to incorporate the wheat design in our creations today.
I have a deep appreciation for this particular piece, which is an imperial creation. The diamonds vary in size, yet they exemplify the artistry and beauty inherent to Chaumet, capturing the essence of nature. This is what is called in French devants de corsage. They are decorative elements or appliqués placed on the front of a bodice (corsage) in women’s garments, especially in historical fashion. This piece adorned with diamonds was worn as a large broch on a dress, almost like an embroidery. Crafted by Fossin in 1816, it holds significant historical value.
Interestingly, as curators of the collection, we noted that such pieces fell out of fashion a few years later. In response, the owners often repurposed these items by cutting them into smaller components to create brooches, earrings, and other accessories. We discovered these various elements and integrated them into a tiara, although this particular design was not created by our Maison. The components were sourced from auctions, and eventually, we gathered enough pieces to commission a reconstruction of this piece.
We presented these elements along with a design to our jewellery workshop, which specialises in antique pieces. This workshop has extensive experience, having previously restored the tiara of the Pope that Nito crafted in 1804. Their team of skilled artisans possessed the expertise necessary to undertake such intricate work.
This piece is emblematic of Chaumet and carries a significant emotional resonance. From a technical perspective, this tiara is crafted from platinum, a material that began to be utilised in the early 20th century. In contrast, it features elements of silver, which can appear darker due to oxidation.
The tiara employs a technique known in French as “fil couteau,” where delicate threads of platinum hold the stones in place. This intricate craftsmanship allows for a refined aesthetic. Additionally, it showcases a trompe l’oeil effect, creating the illusion of pear-cut diamonds, although the stones used were generously provided by the family for this creation. This trompe l’oeil technique demonstrates the jeweller’s exceptional skill, suggesting a resemblance to nature’s beauty. While nature itself embodies the ultimate source of beauty, the jeweller’s artistry can closely mimic it.
Furthermore, the design features flowers of fuchsia, a bloom known for its vibrant pink hue, symbolising profound love. This particular tiara was intended to be presented the morning after the wedding of Princess Hedwige of Bourbon-Parma, representing the delicate dewdrops that settle on flowers at dawn.
In the 20th century, women gained greater access to education, allowing them to secure higher positions and earn increased salaries. In France, they attained the right to open bank accounts independently, without requiring the signature of a husband or father, enabling them to earn their own income. As a result, women began purchasing their own jewellery.
Simultaneously, their fashion choices evolved; whereas women previously relied on haute couture, ready-to-wear fashion became prevalent. This shift led them to seek jewellery that complemented their everyday attire. In response, the Chaumet family adapted their business model, operating two distinct stores. One store featured luxurious pieces adorned with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies, while the other catered primarily to women seeking more affordable options, focusing on gold and incorporating some semi-precious stones such as turquoise.
This approach resulted in a diverse array of techniques to showcase the beauty of gold. For example, one technique involves hammering the gold, while another, referred to as “font à l’acier perdu,” entails melting gold to create a structure with liquid gold. Additionally, Chaumet introduced a unique approach known as “white gold” or “salvaged gold,” which is crafted to resemble freshly extracted gold from the mine. Nearby, yellow gold is contrasted with polished white gold that possesses a strikingly rough texture, showcasing the craftsmanship involved.
This exquisite piece was created by Joseph Chaumet at the turn of the 20th century. Such a remarkable item is rarely encountered. The emeralds are exceptional, exhibiting a perfect shade of green that is neither too blue nor too yellow. It is reputed, though not documented, that these emeralds once belonged to Eugénie, the Empress of the French, who reigned from 1855. This tiara holds the record as the most valuable tiara ever sold globally, demonstrating the discerning eye of the Qatar Museum team in their selection of exceptional pieces. It remains a true masterpiece.
Animals and the sky hold significant importance for Chaumet, particularly as represented by the wings featured in the collection. We have wings that belong to the Qatar collection alongside those from the Chaumet Paris collection. While they share the same design, they differ in size. The larger wings were crafted for Mrs. Vanderbilt Whitney, whose height may have inspired their proportions. Made from platinum and diamonds, the wings feature a distinctive blue enamel, a hallmark of Chaumet’s craftsmanship. Typically, the process of creating enamel involves applying coloured elements resembling glass to a surface, followed by a firing process that is repeated to achieve the desired finish.
Shouq Al-Mana is an artist from Qatar who recreated a traditional tool used in the pearl industry using pearls themselves. This tool consists of small metal baskets with uniformly sized holes. The process begins with a basket featuring small holes, designed to allow only the smallest pearls to pass through. Pearls are then transferred to subsequent baskets with larger holes, allowing for a step-by-step selection process that ultimately categorises the pearls by size. This meticulous sorting is essential, as pearls collected during dives are initially gathered together, and separating them by size is crucial for sales.
About Chaumet
Founded in 1780, Chaumet is one of France’s oldest and most prestigious jewellery houses, with a heritage deeply intertwined with French history. Renowned for its craftsmanship and botanical inspiration, Chaumet gained early prominence as the official jeweller to Emperor Napoleon, creating iconic pieces like Empress Joséphine’s tiaras. Over the centuries, Chaumet has mastered the art of high jewellery, drawing from the natural world to craft timeless pieces that blend elegance with technical innovation. From Place Vendôme in Paris, Chaumet continues to influence modern jewellery design, celebrated for its delicate detailing, innovative techniques, and the artistry of its creations.
Location: M7, Doha, Qatar
Dates: 1 November 2024 – 19 December 2024
Watch the video guided tour by Bernard Bonnet about the Chaumet and Nature exhibition